This expedition was lead by Mountain Guide Mr. Jyamchang Bhote. Name of Expedition member: - 1. Marcus Scarth 2. Steave Wraith
Testimonial from Steve Wraith and Marcus Scarth regarding successful Everest Expedition 2009.
Date: - 21 May, 2009
Expedition team in Base camp, All the members of expedition team are fine. They camp back on snowboards from Camp 4 to Camp3.
Date: - 20 May, 2009
Expedition team coming back on snowboards.
Date: - 19 May, 2009
Expedition team successfully summitted Mt. Everest. They reached at the summit at 10.am. In team there were four members two sherpa and two clients.
Date: - 18 May, 2009
Expedition team in South Col. 26000 feet, they were stuck here because of high winds, hoping for summit push tonight if weather is good. Oxygen is going to finish, if they could not make it tonight they will be out of oxygen and team will return back on snowboards.
Expedition team headed for Mt. Everest Summit at 6am from Camp 4.
Date: - 17 May, 2009
Expedition team in Camp 4.
Date: - 16 May, 2009
Expedition team in Camp 3 at 24,000 feet leaving for Camp 4 at 26,000 feet at 5am. Team have to go 5,000 feet vertical.
Date: - 15 May, 2009
Expedition team in Camp 2, having little suffering, heading to Camp 3 if weather is good.
Date: - 14 May, 2009
Last week Expedition Team tried for Summit, weather is good for only short period. So they made only upto Camp 3 before wind forced they return to Base Camp. They will try again from 15 May.
Date: - 5th May, 2009
Report/Message from Everest Expedition Team
Greetings and sorry for the long absence!!
We had technical difficulties from the highest internet café in the world 10 days or so ago .The system crashed when I sent a huge blog with 20 photos. We’re less ambitious now and hope to piece things back together quickly and make up for lost time!
Time/date at the time of this writing is May 4, 2009!! Happy Birthday Mom Wraith!!
Going back a couple of weeks ago, the highest cricket match ever played happened between team Hillary and Team Tanzing at Gorakshep at 5140M, just an hour or so from Everest Base Camp. 50 Londoners made the journey out from The U.K. to make the Guiness Book of World Records event on the Queen’s birthday. Final score Hillie 152, Tanzing 116, all out.
We might have made the event, but after our first foray into the Khumbu Ice Fall at 20,000’ or so, I came down with a very big headache, complicated by an ever developing and worsening “Khumbu Cough”, that everyone seems to have a version of, mild or strong, due to the exertion and cold winds, leaving all in a constant state of hot and cold from Base Camp forward.
The Khumbu Ice Fall lived up to all expectations-giant towers of ice and calving glacier formed long ago, all in a constant state of flex and movement. Every year a “path” has to be found through the crevices, gaps, snow-up, down, around, over it all. The ladders you’ve seen on Everest footage are real-this year there are a mere 35 ladders laid flat or vertical to help cross the gaping crevices-it’s like a choreographed, delicate circus balancing act, trying to place the front points of your crampons over the rungs and walk with a temporary rope handrail on either side. It is doable, but gets your attention-best course of action: concentrate on the footwork and don’t look down in to the void. It was about 5 hours up and 3 back at a fast pace to beat the 9 AM avalanches at the top of the icefall. All expectations fulfilled on the 8 hour up and back to 20,000’-tough, wild, and very real.
Before that, we spent time getting comfortable with Base Camp and worked on ice climbing, rope work, using jumars(ascenders), and did some rappelling, etc. We have a great Base Camp setup and crew. Jyamchang runs a tight ship and has managed to create a very peaceful setting on what is really just a bunch of rocks on ice-the glacial moraine of the Khumbu. We have our own personal Lama/climbing Sherpa in Chirring, who along with Base Camp helper extraordinaire, Temba, built and then rebuilt our very own rock shrine, which would make the Incas proud. Prayer flags go out in every direction from a high point, and it is clear from our many visitors, local and foreign, that something special is going on in our personal, local Sherpa base camp. The Purja, or blessing done at the climbing site, was done by Chirring, who, like all our crew, is from Jyamchang’s home town in the Makalu region of Eastern Nepal, near the Tibet border. The blessing, complete with incense and a beautiful blend of chanting and offerings to the mountain God, Sagarmatha, put us all in a trance. All our gear was at the bottom of the shrine-ice axes, boots, crampons, and snowboards. We made a traditional toast of local brandy to Sagarmatha, but other than that Marcus and I have been staying clear headed, saving any celebration until after we’ve given Everest our best(and deserved) effort. Lakpa at 51, is our chef, and a remarkable athletic specimen on the mountain-always looking out for us young guys! Sonam rounds off the team and is proving his high mountain strength, as he and the boys have already climbed into the clouds at Camp 4 and the South Col, bringing up our supplies for our hopeful, eventual summit push, coming up soon.
Everest Base Camp is a temporary city, laid out in a semblance of order in spite of the undulations of the moraine-all the famous climbers, guides, and high dollar groups are here, including Russell Brice, IMG(International Mountain Guides), RMI/Eddie Bauer-doing some filming promotional work/climbing and have American climbing great Ed Viestrus on their team as well as Sherrie of MTV fame, who also paraglides with Marcus back in Aspen. Also here are the Singapore women, with a nation of 5 million following their every move. Then there’s the Indian Army, the Croatian women, Apa Sherpa from Thame, mentioned in a previous blog, who’s going for summit # 18! There’s our buddie Paul, a U.K. cop, who has amassed a resume of classic climbs, including the Eiger, Matterhorn, Mount Cook, Ama Dablam, and is humble, tough, and has a disciplined straight forward, light hearted approach, and often is asked to speak in public about his accomplishments-a great ambassador to the sport. Finally, out of 37 expeditions, there’s our humble High Himalaya team, 5 local climbing Sherpas and 2 foreigners from CO.
Temporarily back to my setback…After my Big Headache, and on the advice of HRA doctor Tori from Kailua, HI, and with the support of Jyamchang and Marcus, I decided to descend to a lower altitude for a few days of R & R in Pheriche. Whether bad luck, the altitude, or too many extra side hikes on the 10 day hike in(though they felt great, good for the soul, and you’d all have done it too-Nepal is a visual wonderland and great for the senses), or some combination, I went from feeling like a rock star to rock bottom almost overnight after doing the Khumbu Ice Fall climb. It was the Slap Down, Yak Fever, reality check, wheels came off, or the flu that got away that left me walking down valley with the energy of someone crossing The Sahara, out of water, moving at the speed of a three toed sloth. Of some solace maybe is that we’re sort of following acclimatization techniques of Anatoli Boukreeev from his book, “The Climb”, where he recommends recovery at lower altitudes before a “summit push”. Marcus and I had our vitals checked in Pheriche(3rd time we had vitals checked in 4 weeks), and BP, oxygen levels, heart rate were/are good for us both, but throw in the “Khumbu Cough” and some heavy work at altitude, and suddenly you feel, humble, weak, and vulnerable. Marcus went back to Base Camp and I lingered a couple of more days trying to sweat out the bad and get my mojo back. Geoff Bogar and I rallied from similar altitude problems here in ’92 and still managed to make our summits-Geoff-send the good vibes!!!
Since I wrote the previous above, I marched back upvalley with the help of Sonam and recovered a couple of more days at Base Camp before catching up with Marcus and Jyamchang at Camp 1 at the top of the Khumbu Ice Fall.. We spent 5 days at Camps 1, and 2, and tried to get to Camp 3(got close), but had setbacks with weather and some headaches for both of us, and retreated yesterday morning all the way back down to Base Camp. We’d hoped to at least “touch” Camp 3 on this rotation, but now feel need we need to sleep at Camp 3 to give us our best chance for success, then return again all the way back to Base Camp, rest hard for 5-7 days and then go for our summit push May 15-20, if all goes well. The boys have been to Camp 4 and dropped tents/oxygen, so we’re in place. The mountain is tough, very tough, and really tests your resolve and commitment. If you don’t want to be here you won’t last.
Impressions:
The full mountain majesty and mystery of Everest has suddenly enveloped us as we’ve gone up on top and into the house of the biggest, highest spot on Mother Earth. Through the eerie, awesome, breathing, moving, cavernous, live mass that is the Khumbu Ice Fall, and up on to the narrow gateway that is the marveled Western CWM, we can’t help but feel small. Everest, with its giant, colorful South Face looms on the left. Nuptse, covered in impossibly steep and sheer blue ice, towers on the right, and the Lohtse face rises straight ahead with its trademark yellow band of rock cutting across its face like a piece of contemporary art, inviting you to look up close, which is the idea, and the route, to the South Col. It’s humbling, intimidating, and awesome, and leaves you sitting in silence as the sun sets in this magical amphitheater. The air is thin, the crevices huge, the history and lore of this famous route surrounding you, you’re tired, feeling the pressure to perform, more than a little out of breath and focus, but for yourself, your loved ones, and out of respect for every one that has come before you and toiled and sacrificed here, you have to give it your best now.
Good moments:
Marcus and his speed run up the Khumbu Ice Fall and back in less than five hours. He was on fire, felt great, and came back energized having enjoyed the magic and the moment in so awesome a place, and shared with Lakpa Sherpa, who is like a wise Indian chief, few words, but all knowing, strong as the day is long. Marcus has been excellent at taking in, getting energy from, and enjoying the moment, raw beauty, and challenge that Everest throws at us every day.
Tough moments:
The psyche, the great unknown..in other words, wondering what person inside you is going to show up on any given day on the mountain-strong as an ox, or weak and lethargic! This plays on your mind as Marcus and I have both been on either side of it. Some days you have the mojo and other days there’s a no show. Oh, the not knowing…
Scary moment:
Watching from Base Camp, looking high on a ridge on Pumo Ri, and seeing Russian climbers kick off an avalanche on fellow climbers below. We pray for their safety.
Funny moment:
When we were climbing up towards the Lhotse face in a cold wind storm, I was moving a little slow, and
Marcus asked: You O.K.?
Steve: I’m not well.
Marcus: Do you have a headache, fever, stomache ache?
Steve: I’m just not well. It’s funny to us in the retelling…onward we marched.
Motivational thoughts from Jyamchang:
“You guys are strong enough, prepared enough physically,..and I just need you both to be stronger in the mind, believe in yourselves and your inner strength, especially when it gets tough up high.”
Good luck to our favorite Swede, Leila, only 4 months married and missing her husband, trying to get up Everest. Tough as nails. We won’t give up if you don’t! Also good luck to Billie with Himex.
A quick catch up timeline:
April 15:
Marched in to Base Camp and said adios to Lynda, Graeme, Gavin, Nick and the U.K. gang as they were headed out and who we’d met previously (they’re heading to Island Peak and we exchanged/signed prayer flags to be placed on our summits for each other’s group and good luck). The U.K. gang had stopped by looking for us, found our camp, and were greeted with hot orange by the boys.
April 16:
First true rest day. Marcus found friend and Aspenite Sherrie, working for RMI. Also found Paul, U.K. Cop/Bobbie, who we hope to be on a similar schedule with for summit attempt.
April 17-18:
Sort out gear, stroll through The Khumbu Glacier, Chirring’s haunting Purja-blessing.
April 19:
Khumbu Ice Fall climb to Camp 1 and back.
April 20-28:
Steve descends with Marcus to Pheriche and the Himalayan Hotel. Meet, share stories, and hang out with Canada traveler, adventurer, rock climbing instructor Dave, who lives in Thailand, and lives for the life on the road, the moment, and vows to trek all Nepal in flip flops as a state of mind! Go Dave. Marcus returns to Base Camp, Steve follows a few days later. Marcus does a practice run up the Khumbu Ice Fall with Lakpa, and works back at Base Camp on rope work, mountaineering, looking for a way to snowboard down the icy, 55 degree South Col, or Lhotse face.
April 29-May 3:
Marcus and Steve on acclimatization rotation. Try for Camp 3, but have to retreat. First real bout with cold weather/potential frostbite. Meet up with Paul, who’s headed up for his last rotation/acclimatization push. Jyamchang talks with us about our gameplan-we’d hoped to be ready for our summit push, but will probably throw in one more rotation and sleep at Camp 3 to give us best chance for success, even if we’re a few days behind other groups.
And now, for a little more culture and fun facts:
Nepal is home to over 100 languages and over 70 ethnic/caste groups, each with their own individual culture, customs, and living style. Some of the most famous ethnic groups include the climbing Sherpas from Tibet/Mongolia. Some of the ethnic groups of the Eastern and Western hill regions include the Gurung, Magar, Rai, and Bhote(as in Jyamchang Bhote, our guide and leader). Well known are the Gerkhas, famous for their history as fearless hand to hand combat soldiers and known for their skill with large Gerkha knives you’ve probably seen in movies. The best of the elite Gerkhas are famous in the days of the British Raj and expanding British Empire when they were commissioned to fight alongside the British and known for their fierce bravery.
Funny moment from the blessing in Pangboche Monastery:
We were having Sherpa tea from a yak dung-fired stove with some Russian climbers before our blessing, and I asked if any of them had climbed with Anatoli Boukreev, who wrote “The Climb” about the Everest tragedy in ’96. One of them said they’d climbed Communist Peak with him many years before. I asked if that was in Russia….I guess their laughter was my answer.
Thanks to: Rafael Costa, photographer from Sao Paolo, Brazil, for the USB cord to try and get some photos to you; Pemba Sherpa for helping me find a CD-R in a town of about 100(it came out from under the counter, covered in dust, but we downloaded pics-now if we can just send them from 17,000’ and not crash the system); Nuru at the Himalayan Hotel for logistics support; Marcus and Jyamchang and the boys for helping me recover.
Marcus is looking strong and focused from great preparation and believing in our mission. He draws strength from his daughter Ava, Mom, Dad, brother and his family, and from his many adventurous friends.
I’m drawing strength from my family, who often has to survive me, and from the great memories, adventures, sufferfests, and shared training with Alex, Geoff B., Dave R., Matty and Carole, Greg C., Deano, Gavin B., Brian N., Brian and Rachel, Jan and Kelly, Papa Wido, Mike and Mona, Pat and Ronnie, Gordon A., Alan VW, Sparky, Martini, Sean, Eric P., Brian C., Jeff P., Jaime, Zach, Laura, Carole, Clint, The Big D, and the great Blears family, Kevin W., Dave C., K2, Monday, Shane, the KE boys, Capt. Dan, Scott S., K.B., Kevin D., Bob Miller, Roger Kerr, The Cooper Day crew, the Stanford gang, the Wimmers, Tommy, the Marolts and Bob Sloezen, Dorje Lama, Aron Ralston, Robin and the Bauer family, the Bjorklunds, the Groomes’, the Hills, the Dunnigans, Brent and the Wildwoods boys, Bob Andreozzi, Chris, Jim, Thor, Rick and Jim and the Marshall Masonry boys, all Mom and Dad’s great friends, Zach, Custom Log, Cornerstone, Ted Docteur and Mona, Mutaual Materials-John and Eric, the Nowaks, Tobin, Barbara at MT HF, John Sun of WWF, and in Hawaii, Mike C., Bruce, Mike Woo at Hula, Buff, Vince, Josette and Bob, Rick Tanner and the girls at The Whaler, Wayno, Tom C., Rob Myers, Lost World Andy, Bob Thompson, Mary Mashima, Joan B., Jim and Leilani’s crew, DA, Jack, Tom D., Dave C. and the Kimo’s crew, and in Kauai, Kristen Greene and Graeme and crew, Steve Preibisius, Elaine S., R.D. and Scott M., and of course Marcus, Ava, and Jyamchang! The list is short as is my memory, so bear with me-I have wonderful memories of you all and is the inspiration to go for it when the going gets tough!!
Parting thoughts as we go on our next rotation:
From Lama Geshe, who blessed us in Pangboche:
Give up all intentions to harm others from your heart,
And do your best to benefit them all;
If each and every one feels the universal responsibility to do so,
We will all enjoy the feast of peace!
From Aron Ralston and his amazing tale of survival in “Between a Rock and a Hard Place”:
“While I’ve learned much I have no regrets about the choice.(the choice to do a slot canyon solo on his original program instead of doing what new friends Megan and Kristi wanted to do) Indeed it has affirmed my belief that our purpose as spiritual beings is to follow our bliss, seek our passions, and live our lives as inspirations to eachother. Everything else flows from that.”
Namaste, Donebat, and Omani Pagmi Hum!!!
Happy Trails and lots of love,
Marcus, Jyamchang, High Himal, and Khumbu Cough Steve.
For what it’s worth, we can be called or text messaged if all works at our satellite phone #: 8821687700809 code to dial into Nepal (00977).
Marcus hopes he will get Ava’s phone # sent to him by family via satellite text and also his email is marcusscarth@gmail.com
Mine is swraith@earthlink.net
Date: - 1st May, 2009
Message from Base Camp 2: - Greetings from Base Camp, technical difficulties with blog until next week, off to Camp.
Back in a few days, All well here.
Date: - 22nd April, 2009
Setting up Base Camp 2
Date: - 21st April, 2009
Expedition Team in Base Camp
Date: - 14th April, 2009
Report from Expedition Team
Namaste one and all!
As our journey continues towards Everest Base Camp from our last update from Namche Bazar, the visual, cultural, and physical experiences have been many. It seems amazing how well the Sherpa people make use of their wild landscape. The valleys are narrow and steep with only occasional flat spots or plateaus, all of which are used and separated into centuries old moss covered rock walled paddocks that hold compost making yaks(like a big buffalo) in the winter and end up being the summer planting plots for rice(Bhat), dark wheat, Chinese spinach, and lentils(Dhal), with dhal bhat being the staple that feeds the nation! A morning champa porridge from the dark wheat is power food, while the local home made chili sauce would make my Dad proud. What's remarkable is that a culture is thriving in this throne room of the mountain gods at extremely high altitudes that wouldn't seem like it could support life, yet what you find is ancient monasteries and villages perched in impossible locations and reached by miles of ancient travelled trails, 2' wide, carved along jagged peaks and dropping so steeply to the river below that it makes you very dizzy.
Following is a quick timeline so far:
April 1-5:
Marcus and Steve arrive a day apart in Kathmandu, capital of Nepal.
Highlights: Meeting Jyamchang and Marcus at Nepal International, hanging out in Tamel eating curry, sorting out permits, gear, antibiotics, etc. at the New Orleans restaurant, an oasis in a wild, wonderful, chaotic part of Kathmandu. Staying at the historical Shankar Hotel was classic and once a palace for over 100 years and now a must stay for trekkers, travelers, and climbers. Having dinner at Jyamchang's(our guide) house was awesome, as well as, and cousin Pimba, and having the best dhal bhat(lentil rice curry) of the trip.
April 5:
Mountain flight to Lukla(2840 Meters) described in last blog-not for the timid.
Highlights: Day hike towards Mera Peak and stop off at the new Swiss Hospital (perched on a cliff) for a check up for both of us and our many aches and pains. Had our BP checked, oxygen levels in our blood, got anti-inflammatories for our identical ankle injuries. It turns out we're in good shape overall. Of course the landing in Lukla on a sheared off ridge landing strip is always exciting.
April 7:
Hike to Phakding(2610M).
Highlights: Rising steeply from the farming plateaus to the first glimpses of a people living on cliffs.
April 8:
Hike to Namche Bazar(3440M).
Highlights: Crossing the super mineral blue Dudh Koshi river various times and going over the spectacularly high Larja Bridge. Also very high was the last climb to Namche Bazar as it snowed, but worth it.
April 8-10:
In and around Namche Bazar.
Highlights: The insane terraced amphitheater that is Namche Bazar, surrounded by Himalayan giants. Day hike to the Hotel Everest View with its impossible, short dirt landing strip, little used by planes anymore and no wonder why. Day hike to a beautiful valley looking like the Scottish Highlands on steroids and home to the village of Thame that boasts a monastery high above the plateau and impossibly built into, around, over, and under giant boulders. We've passed 1000's of carved stone tablets, many centuries old, each one looking like they could be the Ten Commandments, but instead each is carved with the Buddhist mantra of enlightenment: Om Mani Pheme Hung. On that hike we also met Apa Sherpa, who has summited Everest 18 times and going for 19. He is the oldest surviving, living Sherpa with so many ascents. Our guide and Sherpa Jyamchang Bhote is on a pace for fame and we're lucky to be his 1st clients with his new company, High Himal. He's so over qualified and experienced that we feel very lucky Marcus met him on a previous expedition where Jyamchang was the lead Sherpa. The peak was in Tibet, called Lakpa Ri(7,000+M) and Marcus snowboarded down while the other climbers had to climb down.
April 10-Good Friday:
We left Namche Bazar in a blaze of last minute communication as snow and lightning took out all internet/satellite locations except one, and we found it. The sun came out and we followed the train of Sherpas, porters, massive Yaks carrying supplies also, as well as climbers, and trekkers, all behind schedule because of weather and not being able to take the mountain flight to Lukla. Adding to the crowds was the fact that no permits for the Tibetan side of Everest were issued until a few days ago, all due to problems between China and its hold over Tibet. Problems arose from the protests by Tibetans during the Olympics and emphasized by the 50th anniversary of the Dali Lama's exile. Tibet is only a few days walk from Nepal and a place where many Tibetans flee to. Everest appears above the massive face of Lhotse and Nuptse as well as Ama Dablam, voted one of the prettiest peaks in the world, and our backdrop and reward upon arriving at Pangboche.
April 10-12:
Pangboche(3930M)
Highlights: Morning hike to Ama Dablam Base Camp, South Ridge Route. The route defies the imagination and compares in difficulty to its sheer beauty, literally. Surpassing that was our visit to the oldest monastery in the valley. A wise, enlightened old Lama blessed 6 of us individually on our path to his mountains and tried to leave us the peace, strength, and tranquility he has already achieved. He held our heads in his hands, looked into our eyes, and touched his head to ours in a ceremony that had us in tears. We thank Jyamchang for making this a journey of self discovery with his mountain family, not just a climb. Call it fate, luck, or coincidence, but our blessing by the Lama was on Easter Sunday and it felt good.
2) Base Camp and crossing the famous Khumbu Ice Fall we've seen in books, movies, and documentaries. We'll go over it and back to base camp many times as we acclimatize on Everest over the next few weeks. Climb high, sleep low.
View from Tengboche
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