BIG BIG CONGRATULATIONS 100% SUMMIT EVEREST 2021
I like to share few comments or suggestions From My side last Everest Expeditions. 2021 Nepal.
As we all know with this pandemic situations this year due to the Covid 19 it was one of most challenging, from the start of the Exp. For both Operator and Clients. To prepare the expeditions – like – Immigration, International Flights, PCR text, lock down, and Hotel quarantine so on. And it made us more stressful and more worried for team members and local staff during expedition’s entire season. Logistically also it made us more challenging because there are only limited shops, flights and hotels local man power active.
So when it comes to the Mountain. :
Definitely both Our Ice fall Doctors and the Fix line team did great job on the mountain.
Still there can be a lot better for both ice fall route and climbing route. I felt Ice fall route was much safe and better this year, I would like to thank you for the teams who open the route. But few sections were most expose top that there are few technical lack of mainly where they fix the anchor on the route according the terrain, one section was just below camp 1, but any way Department of tourism and SPCC ,should consider to use with Experience Ice fall doctor and ‘well trained Guide next season.
Fix Line: above camp 1.
I would like to suggest full fix rope camp 1 to camp 2 with proper flag mark. There was most of the route no fix rope, and there were lots of hidden crevasses, I think some of the crevasses can be 500m deep. And should put more visible bamboo flag along the route. Because no mark it was another danger with whiteout and if cambers miss the track it can be fallen one of those big hidden crevasses.
Most of IFMGA certify mountain guide CARRY our guide rope on the glacier with our clients as glacier travel for safety.
I would suggest full fix line rope / flag mark to camp 2 to Lhotse jumaring point.
Fix line on Everest/Lhotse face and to summit, –
I would suggest entire Lhotse face route should have two line, 1 line for climbing up and 1 line for rappel down. All the route on the Lhotse face and to summit rope was very tight we can’t rappel so is much better fix rope are rappel able.
Not much transferring about rope fixing this year so we didn’t knew when they will fix to the top.
Weather:
It is always challenging part for mountaineering life. And this year it was very tricky with a weather.
I would like to thank you NNMGA, For Daily update forecast.
NAMASTE : LOOKING FORWARD TO GUIDE 2022 SEASON
Mr. Jyamchang Bhote
Managing Director
High Himalayan Climbing & Expeditions
www.highhimalayan.com
‘We realize your dream of altitude’
IFMGA certified guide and 8 times Mt Everest summiteer